Decking,and side planki with mahagony over the plywood

[Jacques]

Did you tried this with success
What is the tickness acceptable for the mahagony to bend correctly. If 1/4 of inch,i could use a joinery for the strips side by side, if less i suppose i cannot Could i use 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch?
What is best to fasten the strips without seeing skrews after glueing?
I could skrew and plug over after, but to do differently could I stapple and take out after or leave there if not visible?
If you have made a triel, please let me know what happened.
Thank you
Jacques

[kens]

Hi,
Welcome to the forum.
Here are some link to some resource for planking decks.
https://www.glen-l.com/deckseams.pdf
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9687
https://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picarchv.html

Here are two builds that are planked over plywood that I have seen, and are beautiful.
https://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboa ... c856a.html
https://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboa ... 1134a.html

Good luck, I hope this helps.
Ken

[vupilot]

What boat are you building? It should specify a thickness.

Yes, you can staple and remove or use Raptor.

[Jacques]

I am building a Zip, but the addition of mahagony strips over the plywood is not proposed in the plans
I would like to avoid making experimentations with the strips of different tickness
I was asking who had success with wich tickness
Thank you for your answer
Jacques

[Bill Edmundson]

I cut3/16 then plane/sanded to 1/8". Probably should have started @ 1/4".

Bill

[Jacques]

Hillo Bill
Did you fastened the strips with screws or staples or?
Did you take these out after or left them there?
If the tickness is big anough i would like to bevel each side of the strips and fix them sidi by side without glueing or filling the seams
Jacques

[JimmY]

On my Squirt, I used 3/16" thick Mahogany on the deck. I used sandbags to weigh it down while the epoxy set up. Others have used screws and washers between the planks to hold them while the epoxy cures. The screw holes are then filled with whatever you decide to use for caulking.

If you are doing the sides, you may want thinner since the bends and twists will be more than on the deck. I used 1/42" Veneer on the sides of my Squirt since I didn't want to add a lot of weight to the hull.

[kens]

For the sides it seems logical to just pay up for Mahogany faced plywood.
Yeah, its expensive, but, for all your time, effort, and half of the planks go to sawdust by the time you mill them all out, rip them, plane them,
Half the money in the side planks goes to sawdust.
Besides, you put on the plywood, and your done

[Jacques]

There is 2 ways of making a 3/16 mahagony strips
You cab buy a 4/4 boards and sand them to 3/16 thickness
Or you can buy an 8/4 boards and make the strips on the 2 inches side , cut 1 inch per strip and sand down to 3/16
One of these 2 sulutions could be less costly
Would the wood grain and the apparence be as nice in each solution?
Jacques

[kens]

the wood grain appearance would depend on the wood you bought originally. Be it flat sawn, rift sawn, quarter sawn,.
Then when you make your planks which side is the finished side at that point?

It would be interesting to see a spreadsheet of which way to cut the planks, which way yields least kerfs. I dont know right away.
But I do know this, when I did the stripper canoe, I mounted the thinnest kerf 7 1/4" skilsaw blade onto my 10" tablesaw.
For all the ripping for canoe strips, that saved a whole lot

[Bill Edmundson]

I bought 8/4 rough cut. Planed/sized it to 1 7/8". 1 7/8" is what 2" masking tape is now. I ripped it to 1 3/16. It cleaned up to about 1/8". Wish I had started at 1/4".

Bill