Slither build in GA

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I have a fiberglass question. In the documents it states that the bottom to transom edge needs to be sharp. It is currently at about a 1/8 radius to support the glassing. How sharp is sharp for a planing boat? Do I need to do the glass tape buildup and grind it down?
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

yup, they dont really say how sharp is sharp.
When I got mine to the same point you are, 1/8 radius, then I made a structural filler to build up the edge, sand that to a really sharp edge
Just how I did it, but I dpnt know the definition of sharp either
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by Bill Edmundson »

If you look at production glass boats, you will see about 1/8" round. That is what I went with.

Bill
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thanks Bill. That will save me some time!
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by hoodman »

Sharp seems like the wrong word to me. I don't know what the right word is. I built it back to a "sharp" edge with epoxy filler. Then eased it a bit with 220 sandpaper. If it's truly a sharp edge the paint won't be durable there.
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Agreed Matt. I always round over edges for that reason. I was curious if the filler was durable enough
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by hoodman »

I think I used a mixture of wood flour and microballoons. The transom straps ride on that edge when it's strapped to the trailer. No I'll effects so far.
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by mrintense »

This was a question I was curious about as well. I did what Ken did, added a relatively sharp aedr with epoxy after glassing. But since that time, a few small pieces have chipped off which will need repairing. When I paint the final blue bottom color, I am going to round it over just a bit. Something like 1/6" to 3/32" (or 1/8" depending on how anal I feel at the time).
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by hoodman »

If you go to almost the bottom of that page you will see how I did it.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139&start=480
Matt

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

that pretty much the same as I did.
I have no ill effects, no chipping on that edge.
All my scratches and boo-boos are the sides at dock height, and bow.
(well, transom when I back into a ladder) :roll:
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Matt
I like that method. Hopefully I can get to that this afternoon
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I decided to sand the boat before putting the edge on the transom bottom. I've got it all sanded down to 80 grit. Couple of spots where the glass showed a little bit. I think one more coat of epoxy should do it. I will roll and to this coat after I get the edge on.
16369030081433500703659301531269.jpg
16369030599513699474314295195807.jpg
Sanding to 80 grit then "painting" is so against the grain of what I do with my furniture!
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by hoodman »

Nice work. Looks really smooth.
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thanks. I am going to put the edge on the transom next. Then a last coat of epoxy. Then the splash rail. I think then I am ready to prime and paint?

The plans show an optional aluminum tee on the bottom which I think is called a skeg. Is this optional, no one uses it, or optional, a very good idea?
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Further reading about the skeg says it is more for the 6 degree jet powered version. I will leave it off for now.
For the spray rail, to verify, it is full length of the boat? The plans do not show it in the side view.
Steve

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