Slither build in GA

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

yes, full length spray rail on the chine
you can bevel the top edge of that, or dress the top edge not to be quite 'squareish'
but the edge on bottom to be square to the sides, even with bottom
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)
hoodman
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by hoodman »

It's a deep vee right? If so you probably don't need a big skeg or maybe don't need one at all.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thanks Ken. I will need some more sapelle for that. I have some cypress on hand but i think that may be to soft.
Hoodman, it is the deep vee. I am thinking i can add that later if i need it. The plans do mention for the deep vee that a single center line skeg would be the way to go if needed
Steve

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I got the AFT corner edge crisper or sharper or however you want to say it. I mixed up a paste of epoxy and microspheres. Created an edge with two putty knives and patience. Here's a before and after but it's kind of hard to see.
IMG_20211116_181213083.jpg
IMG_20211117_173310618.jpg
I then sanded it down flush and smooth gave it a slight round over and was ready to put on a coat of epoxy.
IMG_20211117_181438143.jpg
I decided to do it in quarters. So I've only got half of the bottom epoxied at this time. I checked it a few minutes ago and it looks like I've still got some orange peel. Even though I rolled and tipped. Anybody got some tips on how to keep that from happening on the rest?
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

Seems epoxy never does flow on really nice, smooth, slick.
I like to tip it with a segment of a foam roller, put on a stick handle. or just a piece of foam plain.
Sand it with 80grit just enough to knock the top off orange peel, then knock the top off the 80 with 180.
My aim is to get to the bottom of orange peel not with 80, but with the 180.
That is looking real nice and fair an smooth, that should finish out really well, good job.
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I tipped with a chip brush. Looked really good. but by the time i got to the bow, the stern had develop the Orange peel, to late to tip again. I think i will have to wait till i get the other three sections done then do local spot sanding and touch up.
Then splash rails and paint.
Steve

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I have one side left for a final epoxy coat then i do the spray rails. The plans call for them to follow the chine which makes sense. However there is a radius from bottom to side there of about 3/8 inch. Should the rail be flush to the bottom and the resulting gap filled? Or is the rail to be adjusted so that the radius is not covered?
I am thinking flush to the bottom with the gap filled.
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

yes flush to bottom, here is a quick sketch of how we been doing this.
20211120_085911.jpg

I would like to do a flush spray rail on my next build, similar to a lift strake
20211120_085927.jpg
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

In reading Glenn's book, I am interpreting this as shown
1637430526946671842335803230512.jpg
For aft of midship
16374305711312361018576430617180.jpg
For forward of midship
There would of course be a transition at midship
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

This is a builders choice thing. That book is not the is-all,,end-all. It is sound ideas & technique. It is not the only answer.
Use the one you like the most.

20211120_133507.jpg

20211120_133526.jpg
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I will be installing the spray rails over the holiday I hope. They are milled and ready to be encapsulated. Then it is just a matter of screwing them on. So i think it is time to order the paint. I know Carl used Alexiseal (sp?) But he did not mention the brand of primer.
I am open to all suggestions keeping in mind that Georgia is in the upper 50s low 60s now.
Steve

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I have some paint questions.

Bearing on mind that the boat will trailered and not in the water overnight do I need to use antifouling paint on the bottom?

Are there good one part paints available?


Is bilge paint required or is encapsulation enough? Or the flip question, if I use the bilge paint, so I need to encapsulate?
Steve

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denbrlr
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by denbrlr »

Steve,

Others will probably chime in here but I think anti-fouling or not is more of a question of salt water use or fresh. If the boat will be used in fresh water only and trailered, then I don't think you need anti-fouling paint for sure.

I used Pettit Protect epoxy primer on my Monaco. This is a two part primer. I believe it is really robust stuff and two coats are recommended by Pettit.

For the paint, I used Pettit copper bronze 1959 (non-anti fouling) and it is a one part paint. It is really cool stuff and gives a metallic looking finish. The question for you is what color do you want? Obviously, the Pettit copper bronze paint only comes in one color.

Don't skimp on the preparation and use a robust primer before painting. Most good primer/paint combinations will probably have detailed prep and application instructions.

Lee
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thanks Lee
I have not researched Pettit. I will look at that today.
As for color I am thinking just a simple white hull with the deck matching the trim on the seats, color to be determined. So for now just white, probably 3 coats.
Steve

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by vupilot »

I would use a freshwater bottom specific paint. If you come to the Gathering you'll be in for the weekend and want more than a topside paint for that.

Pettit makes good stuff, Interlux and Total Boat too.

2 coats of encapsulation alone for truly dark places of the bilge is fine. Anywhere that gets sun, even indirectly you'll want protection on, such as paint or varnish.
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