Lee's Monaco utility build

[denbrlr]

Hello from central Illinois. Well, I went and did something rash. I started a Monaco build (utility version) and I am really excited. I built a TNT back in 2010/2011 and ever since then I have been thinking about building a bigger boat. I have been preparing the last couple of months (e.g. ordering boat plans, buying some tools, buying material, preparing part of my garage, etc.). Even though this will be a multi-year project, I am really looking forward to it. I will post as I go along

Lee

[JimmY]

Looking forward to your build.

[HubbTX06]

can't wait to see your work and your progress. I learn something new overtime I get on this forum.

[denbrlr]

Thank you. The lumber is cut out and sanded for frame one Not so impressive I know but hey, it is progress. A fair amount of time was spent studying the plans and remembering the tricks for transferring the frame outlines with carbon paper to the assembly board and the lumber itself.

My dust collection system works great with my bench belt sander. I had to create a custom setup but it is very effective. I will also use dust collection with my planer, table saw, and hand belt sander. I am still trying to see if it does much good with my jigsaw. The dust collection system is pretty big and kind of overkill but I highly recommend using one. When I built the TNT, I didn't have one and my bench belt sander and hand belt sander created a mess all over the place.

That is all for now. This is fun

[denbrlr]

The Monaco instructions state the following: "The bottom frame member on frames #1 through #7 is in two parts joined over a 3/4" plywood floor timber, glued and screw fastened per the Schedule". I have just started working on the frames and started with frame #1. However, it looks to me that the bottom frame member should be a single piece and not two pieces. It also seems that way for most of the other frames. Also, I don't see a notch on the full size patterns for frame #1 (like I do on other frames) where the keel goes in relation to the bottom frame member.

Am I missing something?

[TomB]

Lee,

The frames can be made with a single piece. Intuitively, it seems that a frame from chine to chine would be stronger...then the prop shaft hole blows through a frame and the engine clearance wipes out the next one.

Making the frames would be more economical using a narrower boards and cutting the joint over the keel might be easier than all the symmetric ripping cuts needed to make the frame profiles.

Fasteners in the aft frames can REALLY get in the way later. (I removed the middle third of several screws ) Take a look at the prop shaft/shaft log location. Chances are there are 2#10 screws called for between frame and keel, screws between keel layers, screws between frame and floor timber. Make yourself a no-screw-zone to save yourself the effort of cutting them out later.

Tom

[denbrlr]

Tom,

I wondered about the prop shaft hole and engine clearance. It does seem to compromise things but I have seen many Monaco boats float so I guess it works out

Thank you for the tips about the fasteners and the prop shaft. I like the idea of a no fastener zone. Now all I have to do is remember to do that...

Lee

[Bill Edmundson]

For sure use bronze fasteners in that area. Most tools will cut through them.

Bill

[denbrlr]

Bill,

Definitely, it will be bronze all around but thank you for the advice.

Lumber for frames one and two are done. The plywood doesn't arrive until Monday so no gussets yet.

Lee

[Ozzieboat]

Lee
For anyone building a Riviera or Monaco a visit to bronkalla.com is a must.

[denbrlr]

Thank you for the bronkalla link. A lot of good information there.

[denbrlr]

I plan to use a PCM 343 engine with PCM's 9 degree down angle transmission. The Monaco plans call for the stringers to be placed so the inside stringer to stringer dimension is 26 inches but you can adjust as needed. I have a drawing of a 5.7L engine with the 9 degree down angle transmission (see below) from skidim. I am not sure if this engine is the 343 but skidim thought it was. The drawing shows some of the mounting dimensions. It looks like the two rear engine mounts are only 22.5 inches apart with the mounting bracket attached. I don't know the exact dimensions of the mounting brackets.

For those who used the PCM 343 in their boat, are these the dimensions of your engine? Did 26 inches between the stringers work well? Please let me know. Thank you.

Lee

PCM engine.jpg (24.6 KiB) Viewed 38935 times

[TomB]

Lee,

The dimensions shown are to the center of the mounts, center of screw hole to center of screw hole. The range would be 22" - 23 7/8" center to center using the plus/minus dimensions. Deduct 1/2 of the stringer on each side, 1 1/2", suggests 20 1/2" to 22 3/8" clear if the mounts set on the stringers. My engine is supposed to ship next week. I can take a look when it gets here. Or give Vince, extension #3, at skidim a call, he can tell you the "typical" clear dimension used on ski boats.

Most appear to be using 26" clear between stringers and then mounting a heavy angle or motor bedding timber on the inside of the stringer to mate up with the engine mounts. The advantage of this approach is to get the mounts below the set up level without carving into the stringers. Some even mount the bedding timber to the mounts and then lower the engine and bedding timbers between the stringers and then drill and through-bolt the stringer and timbers when everything is lined up.

Tom

[denbrlr]

Tom,

Thank you. Let me know when your engine arrives

The plywood arrived today - 24 sheets of 4mm and then a few other pieces for the gussets, stem, etc.! I am using Hydrotek. I plan to use 4mm for the hull layers and then buy a large piece or two of 12/4 genuine (Honduran) mahogany and make the out lam with that.

I am using genuine mahogany for all of the lumber.

Some pictures are below. (I guess I need to figure out how to make sure they are rotated properly when uploaded)

Lee

Here is another expensive pile

Here is yet another expensive pile

[sscobra]

I used the PCM 343 engine in my Monaco. You will love it! I spaced my stringers 26" apart and the engine fit easily between them. I bought some heavy aluminum angle mounts and bolted them to the inside of the stringers for the front on the engine. I couldn't find an appropriate size aluminum angle for the rear engine mounts so I made mine out of Mahogany and epoxied and bolted them to the inside of the stringers. I did just as Tom indicated. I first mounted the aluminum and Mahogany pieces to the engine and lowered them into the boat between the stringers. I then aligned the engine to the prop shaft and drilled the holes in the stringers to bolt the new aluminum and Mahogany mounts to the stringers. I first put the mounts that come with the engine in the center of their adjustment range so once I had the engine bolted in place, I would have plenty of adjustment to do the final alignment. You can see this in my posts under the heading "Making progress on my Monaco". Skip