
Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Moderators: Bill Edmundson, billy c
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thanks Steve. Yes, in this setup it should be fine without any 3D-machining 

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thomas,
I like your idea. I saw a boat recently that took a C shaped bite out of the cutwater. Then they ran a straight rod through the bite where the leading edge would have been. The C surface was stainless steel. I assume there were some rods anchoring the straight edge back into the stem. It looked simple, elegant, and hard to do.
Tom
I like your idea. I saw a boat recently that took a C shaped bite out of the cutwater. Then they ran a straight rod through the bite where the leading edge would have been. The C surface was stainless steel. I assume there were some rods anchoring the straight edge back into the stem. It looked simple, elegant, and hard to do.
Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23 & just starting Rosita
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thanks Tom. I agree- sadly, when things look simple and elegant, they are normally hard to do!
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
now I see, really really neat and creative design!
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Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
What a beautiful boat thomas and i hope i have the same patience as you
I want to build the same boat or a Monaco 19 but at the moment the barrelback is most in mind because of the 6 seats in front. Looking forward to follow this project. And please keep us updated. You are now almost there after 6 years 


Last edited by TheBarbarian on Thu Apr 08, 2021 1:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Dry-fitting continues. Plumbing the fuel tank. The steering cylinder is mounted. Exhaust tips in place.
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Nice transom, what is that finish?
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze





Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thanks Ken! I’ve used a water based dye, from W.D. Lockwood on the outer layer of mahogany. It’s one of their “Metal Complex” dyes, which are supposed to have a very good lightfastness. For now it’s only a couple of coats of epoxy on top of that for protection. When the deck is done I will add a few more layers of epoxy all over, and then spray on x-amount of coats of a 2K PU clear.
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
The color and grain on the transom is wonderful, well done.
Matt B
Matt B
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thanks Matt! I think the dye makes the grain show really well, and doesn’t could it up at all.
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thomas, you have been doing such fine work on your build. Thanks for sharing the progress with us.
I agree with Matt, the transom looks fabulous. Could you tell us please which one of the Lockwood dyes it was that you used?
Barry
I agree with Matt, the transom looks fabulous. Could you tell us please which one of the Lockwood dyes it was that you used?
Barry
Barry Shantz
Imp built and launched.
Slowly building Ken Bassett's Rascal
Imp built and launched.
Slowly building Ken Bassett's Rascal
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thanks for the kind words Barry!
I used the MCW#23 Honduras Brown Mahogany from Lockwood (as mentioned in the other post this is a water (and alcohol) soluble dye powder in their "Metal Complex" range). I mixed it in a ratio of 30g/l (so 0.5oz/pt in imperial measurements). Before applying the dye, I wetted out the hull with water to raise the grain and then lightly sanded it by hand. The dye is very easy to apply - I just used a rag and let the wood soak up the amount it wants, then wipe off the excess afterwards. You have plenty of time since it's water soluble which makes getting an even result fairly easy.
I made a test to find out which mixing ratio I wanted before I started on the hull itself. Below you can see pictures of 30g/l and 60g/l mixes, before and after sealing with epoxy. In the pictures they do look a bit darker than in daylight, but it should give you an indication regardless.
I used the MCW#23 Honduras Brown Mahogany from Lockwood (as mentioned in the other post this is a water (and alcohol) soluble dye powder in their "Metal Complex" range). I mixed it in a ratio of 30g/l (so 0.5oz/pt in imperial measurements). Before applying the dye, I wetted out the hull with water to raise the grain and then lightly sanded it by hand. The dye is very easy to apply - I just used a rag and let the wood soak up the amount it wants, then wipe off the excess afterwards. You have plenty of time since it's water soluble which makes getting an even result fairly easy.
I made a test to find out which mixing ratio I wanted before I started on the hull itself. Below you can see pictures of 30g/l and 60g/l mixes, before and after sealing with epoxy. In the pictures they do look a bit darker than in daylight, but it should give you an indication regardless.
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Thank you for the detail, Thomas. Very helpful indeed.
Barry
Barry
Barry Shantz
Imp built and launched.
Slowly building Ken Bassett's Rascal
Imp built and launched.
Slowly building Ken Bassett's Rascal
Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Big day today - started the engine for the first time! It’s a NOS engine, so had to un-stick some sticky fuel pumps (nothing happened when I tried to prime them). When they were back in service, it started at once, although it’s 20 years since it left the factory
Sounds good too, I think.
Hopefully this link to a short video works:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6gr8htv8nyvnl ... 8.MOV?dl=0
Hopefully this link to a short video works:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6gr8htv8nyvnl ... 8.MOV?dl=0
- Bill Edmundson
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- Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'
Sounds great! Thomas.
Bill

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build
Tahoe 19 Build