painting a hobie 14

yankyfan100 · Post by **yankyfan100** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 3:43 pm

Hey, im new here and ive posted my question on a few differnt forums, maybe i can find help here. Heres my question:

I finally want to do soemthign about my hull, its a hobie 14. I already do what your not supposed to do and keep it moored in the water(fresh water lake). Blisters have started to form and paint has started to peel from the hull below the water line(previous owner may have painted it). I did a little research and the best and easiest thing to do is use interlux's VC2 Tar as a primer and then finish with the VC-17 antifouling paint. My plan was to mask off a line a little above the waterline and refinish it from there down. Is this a good idea? I dont want to get into anything more complicated than that. Also on the bottom it is almost down to the fiberglass it seems in some spots(mostly scratches, no big areas). Will the primer and paint take care of that?

i also read here from a search that antifouling paint oxidizes out fo water? i havnt read that anywhere else but on one pst from here. clarification plase?

http://www.iboats.com/products/7/484...tar_2_kit.html (primer)

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store...ectionid=10189 (paint)

thanks in advance for the input, and please steer me in the right direction! I have no experience with this at all.

DanH · Post by **DanH** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:04 am

Your plan sounds good. You want to remove as much of the old paint as possible, apply an epoxy barrier coat (VC TAR2) and then the bottom paint. After you remove the bottom paint, let the hull sit in the sun for a couple of days to dry out.

yankyfan100 · Post by **yankyfan100** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 11:57 am

Well as i researched more i found that the vc-17 is way to thin so i think i will use the interlux ultra with biolux. My question now is what will happen if any of the bottom kote primer like vc tar and the antifouling paint is above the water line? Will it start to fall off??

John Bowen · Post by **John Bowen** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 2:35 pm

No, it will not fall off.

As Dan has mentioned, remove the gel-coat and let stand, to dry out. When you think it's dryed out, let it sit longer.

VC-Tar and VC17, is good stuff. Pay close attention to the mix of the Tar, Roll and Tip works best (two thin coats). The 17 WILL WORK well for your app.. It has teflon in it and turns vary slick when wet. It has "slow release" for anti-foul and it dries hard (not soft). The best part about this VC-17 is that when you see it wearing thru (like, from all that beeching), you just re-apply some more. No sanding needed.

I used both back in 87-88 on my boat.

yankyfan100 · Post by **yankyfan100** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:43 pm

thanks for the response john, maybe i will go with the vc17 after all. One more question about it, will it last about 2 1/2 months in the water?

how thick are gel coats? When i get to the fiberglass is that the end end of the gel coat? or maybe should i ask, do i need to get right down to the fiberglass? sorry if that is a stupid question.

so after i get all of the gel coat off, i should apply the primer and then the anti fouling and thats it?

What is roll and tip?

thanks for the help

DanH · Post by **DanH** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:38 pm

Let's take a little step back.

Are the blisters in the gelcoat or are they just under old paint?

If the paint is blistered:
A top-side paint will blister if sitting in the water too long. If this is the case, sand off all of the paint. There should be gelcoat under the paint. If there are no blisters in the gelcoat, let it dry for a couple of days and then apply the primer.

If the gelcoat is blistered:
..you have a lot more work ahead of you. Gelcoat blisters look different than paint blisters. If you sand a paint blister off, you will have a normal surface under it. If it is a gelcoat blister, you will have a void behind the blister that will need to be filled. If there are only a few blisters, you can tackle them one by one. If you have many blisters, it is faster to remove all of the gelcoat (but not the fiberglass).

For the antifouling bottom paint, there are many types to choose from. At the highest level, there are two types; ablative and traditional non-ablative.

Ablatives tend to be thick and wear away as the boat moves in the water. As the top layer looses its effectiveness, it is renewed as the top layer slowly wears away. In time, nearly all of the bottom paint will wear away. As long as you have paint on the bottom of the boat and you use it frequently, you have protection from growing things. I use a multi-season ablative on one of my boats.

Traditional bottom paints are hard and release the anti-fouling chemicals (mostly copper) through the paint over time. The paint does not wear away over time. These bottom paint typically must be kept wet and are effective for a full season. Typically, these paints are sanded off during the off season and new paint is applied before launching the boat for the following season. This type of bottom paint seems to be preferred for boats that are stationary most of the time.

The Interlux website (www.yachtpaint.com) has a lot of great information.

Dan

yankyfan100 · Post by **yankyfan100** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 5:31 pm

i have gelcoat blister

I chipped some away and i can see fiberglass. So i need to remove all the gelcoat (that is down to the fiberglass correct?) And then apply my primer, or is there an intermediate step?

John Bowen · Post by **John Bowen** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:56 pm

Just how bad is the blistering?

This is just to give you an insight of what could be.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/03.htm

http://www.wessex-resins.com/westsystem ... sters.html

There is this also, for after or during your repair work. Don't run off, we'll still help ya out as much as we can. Just didn't know if you knew of this site or not?

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/index ... fc4073c980

yankyfan100 · Post by **yankyfan100** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:48 am

the blistering is no where as bad as on one of those websights with hughe blisters. they are about 2-3 cm around at most. i started sanding and the bumps seem to just sand away which i am fine with. My quwestion now is, how do i know when to stop sanding?! When i get all the paint off?

John Bowen · Post by **John Bowen** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 3:48 pm

YUP! All the paint, then tell us what your seeing.

leakcheck · Post by **leakcheck** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 8:18 pm

if it is a production fiberglass boat the gelcoat is probably about 20mils thick from the factory.

Guys, (okay..so I am lazy) is the bottom paint "waterproof"? In otherwords: if I have interlux brightside on the bottom of the boat right now (which will blister when left in the water too long) and I paint over that with a true bottom paint (not a two pack epoxy) but a high copper content type paint...will the water bleed through the bottom paint and make the brightsides blister still ???

Steve

Reason I ask...I was thinking of just sanding down the blistered red bottom six inches off the hull (1-1/2 of which sits in the water and blisters) and repaint with interlux brightsides and then cover that with a red colored bottom paint and throw it back in the lake.

Steve

yankyfan100 · Post by **yankyfan100** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 7:27 pm

alright so i started sanding, broke one sander, went out and got another and finally made some progress. As i get the paint off i beleive im at the gelcoat(its still a little yellow like the paint bit im almost positive its not paint)

my question now is what do i do? clean it with Interlux 202 Fiberglass Solvent Wash? then primer, then paint?

are they any techniques when applying using a roller? What kinda of roller shouldi use?

thanks-

leakcheck · Post by **leakcheck** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:09 pm

Sometimes "paint" and "gelcoat" are used interchangeably but they are different. If it was a production boat...the "paint" IS gelcoat. Once you get through that you should be into your fiberglas schedule.

I can see that the major problem is that you are a Yankee fan and I am a red sox fan...this aint gonna float.

Steve

leakcheck · Post by **leakcheck** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:10 pm

Make sure you are not sanding poly resin. That actually can go on somewhat "yellow"..but you should still see fibers when you sand it.

Steve

John Bowen · Post by **John Bowen** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:35 pm

leakcheck wrote:...will the water bleed through the bottom paint and make the brightsides blister still ???

Yes!

Yankyfan, Only take the piant off to the gel-coat. If you see fibers, you've gone thru the gel-coat. For now, only take the gel-coat off where the blisters are. Be sure to get all you can see or feel!! I do believe the gel-coat is yellow, is it not?