Roll and Tip Painting Method

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JF Woodworks
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Roll and Tip Painting Method

Post by JF Woodworks »

Has anyone had experience using the roll and tip method of applying the finish coat, do you have to do the entire hull or can you do it in sections? If the later is an acceptable method how do you prevent the starting and stopping point from showing? I will be using Interlux Perfection if it matters.

Any input would be appreciated…

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leakcheck
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Post by leakcheck »

Do you have the interlux brochure describing the process?

I used the Interlux Brightside paints (polyurethane) and the results are amazing. I used the smallest nap roller available and the widest (4") high quality brush to tip off with.

I always ended at a breaking point that was logical, I would complete one whole side and before I would wrap around to the transom I would stop right at the junction and then pick up there on the next coat. Put even where they joined i cant tell.

I also have a buffer and the 3M finishing compounds...but to tell you the truth I am almost afraid to use the 3M compounds on it. The finish is "shinier" without buffing with the 3M, but it is "smoother" once finished with the 3M...so it depends on the look. It looks more automotive with the 3M buffed finish, and more high gloss the other way. I may buff the whole thing and then wax it and might have the same end result.

Steve

Use as little paint as possible. Do not apply it thick thnking it will look better...it wont.

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

Steve is right, try to stop at an edge or corner if you have to, do you have a particular reason for not doing it in one hit though?

I've done a 23' cabin cruiser hull using this method working alone, a single coat took around 45 minutes to apply so no need to stop and start.
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JF Woodworks
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Post by JF Woodworks »

Thanks for the tips Steve and Graham. I do have the video that Interlux puts out for the Perfection line of paint, however they never mentioned if you could stop painting during the procedure.

The reason that I thought that I might need to stop was that I had no idea what the pot life or working time was. I guess if Graham can do a 23 foot hull in 45 minutes then I can't imagine why I would be able to do a 16 foot hull. So I guess there is no need to stop. :D Thanks again for the advice.

One more thought, once applied to a small section say 2 x 2 roughly how much time do you have to blend in the next section before it get too tacky?

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

I haven't worked with Perfection before so I can't really comment on working times, all I can say is that two pack paints are particularly temperature dependant, more so than single packs which can simply be thinned out to increase working time in hot weather.
I've had really excellent results with both Brightsides and Toplac, the Toplac in particular is virtually indistinguishable from a sprayed finish, and I've been a sprayer for 25 years!
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leakcheck
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Post by leakcheck »

Graham,

Would you recommend running over the finish with 3M perfect-it III machine glaze or finishing glaze?


My problem is that I am working in my basement which is less than an ideal paint booth. (And I dont even know what a paint booth really is..I know it has fans and filters and all sorts of stuff)...But just the airborne lint and crap in the air sticks to the finish paint, and even though it looks good if I run my hand over the surface I can feel the "bumps"...So I am thinking about buffing it out with the 3M finishing glaze...that will make it as smooth as a babies butt, though it might look a little more like my wifes butt cuz there are some dimples in it.

Steve

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

3M perfect-it III machine glaze or finishing glaze?
I don't know, what is that, a cutting compound?

I didn't bother because the finish I achieved was good enough, OK there were a few bits in it but it's a boat, no-one ever gets that close!

I think you need to wait and see how good your finish is before you decide.

If you have dust problems in your basement maybe you could paint outside? If you rig up a polythene tent, damp down the ground a few hours before you start work, and wear clean painting overalls, you should be able to minimise the dust.
It's also worth remembering that more dust settles on horizontal surfaces, much less on vertical. Try painting the bottom while the boat is upside down, then turning it and painting the sides when it's right way up. You'll find hardly any dust settles on the flared sides.
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Dave Grason
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Post by Dave Grason »

WOW, what a great thread this has turned into..... lots of good information.
Graham Knight wrote:
3M perfect-it III machine glaze or finishing glaze?
I don't know, what is that, a cutting compound?
I think I would probably classify it as a polishing compound - much less abrasive than a cutting compound. But it's the same idea with less agression.

For an amatuer painter trying to get pro results, I'd have to say from personal experience that rigging up a polyethylene tent and prewetting the ground works wonders. A couple of tips that worked well for me also were:

#1. A certain amount of dust is attracted by static electricity. And the static electricity can build up during the sanding and wiping down prior to paint. The auto body supply stores sell products that can be sprayed on to kill off that electrical buildup thereby dramatically reducing the amount of dust being attracted to the paint.

#2. Whenever I've painted, I would roll up a cuff on my sleeve or pant leg. Then while the paint is still wet, any time I'd see a stray piece of dust large enough that I couldn't live with it OR a kamikaze bug, I'd gingerly lift it out and tuck it into my rolled up cuff. That would be one piece that wouldn't be back on the project. Previously, if I just dropped them on the ground, they might work their way right back into the fresh paint.
Isn't it amazing!! The person that never has the fortitude to pursue his own dreams, will be the first to try and discourage you from pursuing yours.

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

Also worth noting that a lot of the dust and bits that end up in the paint come from you! Fibres from your clothes, hairs etc..., account for a large percentage and it's easy to stop, just wear clean Tyvak overalls and one of those plastic disposable shower caps.
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Mr Hot Rod
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Post by Mr Hot Rod »

3M perfect-it III machine glaze or finishing glaze?
Here's a great link on buffing that might be of interest :

http://www.vintagehydroplanes.com/buffing.html
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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

HERE
is an interesting and very useful video showing the roll and tip technique, plus an extra one showing hand painted lettering.
Note that in the roll and tip video he's applying the paint with the roller, and just using the wide brush to smooth out the stipple effect and any bubbles left by the roller, the brush is not being used to apply paint. Also note that he's using a very light touch with the brush, just dragging it across the surface, the small brush is being used to dab paint in corners where the roller can't reach.
In certain conditions the paint needs to be thinned, but just how much depends on the air temperature and the paint you use, it's really not possible to advise on this, other than to say try thinning a little at a time until you arrive at a consistency that works.
I would also advise against painting in direct sunlight, I know we can't all paint indoors, I rarely get the chance except with very small boats, but just rigging up some sort of screen really helps. The aim is to stop the paint skinning and keep it fluid until you've had time to tip it.

The video link was originally posted on the WoodenBoat Forum, apparently it will not work with a dial-up connection, high speed connections only.
Graham in Shepperton, England

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John Bowen
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Post by John Bowen »

This is what I get..........
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Windows Media Player cannot play the file. If the file is on another computer, verify that you are connected to the network. If you typed a path, verify that it is correct. If the problem persists, the server might not be available.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've got DSL, not sure why it shouldn't pick it up. But then, I'm not sure with alot of this PC stuff :roll:
One day.

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

OK there's a problem, I checked the WoodenBoat Form and I see the guy who posted the video has had to remove it, it may be that it's had so many hits he's exceeded his account limit!

I'll keep an eye out and see if he posts it again.
Graham in Shepperton, England

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

The video is up again http://easylink.playstream.com/pford...imstream-1.wvx
be quick though if you want to see it, it may not last long and it won't be there for ever anyway.
Graham in Shepperton, England

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John Bowen
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Post by John Bowen »

I'm still getting the same message. Maybe it's already down. I'll take a look over at WoodenBoat and see if I can't find it.
One day.

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