Glen-L.com

Hello,

I'm just wondering if using epoxy in my basement workshop is a good idea? I would like to start to put my frames together but would like to do it indoors where it's warm ( living in Canada around 40 degrees outside now and dropping).

Can you use epoxy in the cold air and would it still work properly and hold it's strength?

Thanks

Hi Fifty; Don't think the epoxy will set up in the cold, however, I see no reason not to use it inside IF nobody has an allergy to it like myself.I put my frames together with plastic resin glue ( waterproof and very strong...available fron Noah's ) but I would probably use Titebond 3 next time....easier to use...no mixing. Had to wait for a warm shop to do the batten installations as it's hard to get a good fit on the frames.
Doug

Hello Fifty - no problems.

My shop is an unfinished portion of my walk out basement directly under the master bedroom. The only time we even have a smell upstairs is when I varnish.

Be sure to looks at the technical specs of the epoxy. Most slow hardeners work best above 70 degrees F. Some say to use fast hardeners between 40 - 60 degrees F. Each is different so be sure to read the instructions for the brand you use.

The warmer the basement the faster the epoxy will set. My basement stays about 60 regardless of time of year because it is backed up against bedrock. I use slow hardener all the time and have no problems (well - except running and sagging and not staying where I put it)

Good luck and send pics

dave

We use epoxy indoors all the time for building R/C models. Its much smaller quantity but I dont see any reason not to if no one is allergic. Just try to keep the stuff off your skin.

Great info, thanks to all. I'll be able to continue building.

Epoxy is safe to mix, apply and let cure indoors. Sanding indoors should always be done with a good dust collection system and filter mask.

I built a boat through a New England winter in my unheated garage. If you are working on the boat in spare time, it isn't an issue. Even slow hardener eventually cures in cold weather (might take 4 or 5 days). That said, it doesn't take much heat at all to move it along quicker. Often, I simply put a light bulb under the hull and turned it on. The one bulb produced enough heat to allow cure in much faster times. With the slow curing time, one really gets to know the stages of epoxy cure. If it balls up like a little eraser shavings/balls, it isn't fully cured.

I should add you need to keep your resin and hardener at normal human room temperature. You won't harm it if it is colder, but it will be difficult to work with.

Keep in mind that epoxy changes its viscosity in cooler or colder weather. SO measuring and mixing can create an issue for curing. Let me suggest a couple of things. Store your resin inside in a warmer closet in a plastic container so the gummy residue that can get down the jug or can does not get on anything of any value. People also store resins in a large cooler with a small lightbulb to keep it workable and able to blend together. Depending on if you are using pumps, thick resin does not come out correctly too. What type are you using and what method of dispensing are you using too? I also microwave my resin only in a jug with the lid closed for a couple of minutes to get it to be thin enough to blend. Its also best that your surface be warmed before applying your resins. More on that if you need some followup.

On a safety note, even if you do not have any skin allegies, its quite possible to cause harm to your liver and lungs with even uncured resins and sanding dusts while using in enclosed areas. SO use the proper respirator and keep any kids and pregnant wimmin from the areas.

This is all interesting as working with it in the near tropics here,I had to keep it on ice to get long enough working times!!!

With the slow catalyst

1) Be careful about spillage.

2) For frames, where you are gluing flat surface to flat surface, consider balcotan, or some other marine polyurethane adhesive.

Dave