Stripper canoe design and build

stanekupnorth · Post by **stanekupnorth** » Sun May 14, 2006 12:24 pm

Hey I'm just getting into this boat building thing and really like the looks of the stripper canoe that uses stripped boards off of many different species of trees. I am just wondering if anyone has ever attempted this boat design and if so how difficult it is to build. Thanks for any info!

John K · Post by **John K** » Thu May 18, 2006 2:31 pm

I have not done a canoe, but finished a kayak this fall. I did the bottom with plywood and the deck is in 1/4 by 3/4 inch strips of cedar. Fiberglassed the cedar and varnish it for a smooth deep finish. It took about 16 hours just to strip the deck. It just takes time and patience

mattr · Post by **mattr** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 5:44 am

Its not difficult. It does take time and two sets of hands are better than one.

I've just completed a stripper. It took just under a year at one day a week. The results are worth it. I'm now building paddles.

stonehollow · Post by **stonehollow** » Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:54 pm

This is my third stripper - it's not bad at all (tools/methods improved much over the last 35 years)!

Arne

Post by **Bill Edmundson** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 6:48 am

I've been looking for a chance.

John likes pictures you know!

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welc ... bFszasWLrI

Bill

John Bowen · Post by **John Bowen** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:45 am

Well, it's about time you showed that build off

Only seen it hanging from the rafters of your shop collecting dust(!!) from your pic's of your other build

Nice work, still

Post by **Bill Edmundson** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:50 am

And Boy is it DUSTY!

Now that we have a gate down at the coast, I need to take it down there and get some use out of it.

Doug in the woods · Post by **Doug in the woods** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:18 pm

Now that looks like a beautiful project!
did you add a toung and grove to each strip then interlock?
never built one so am in the dark. Saw a reference to this method somewhere??

Post by **Bill Edmundson** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 5:27 am

Doug,

I just left the edges square. The book "Canoe Craft" is an excellant source. It has fiberglass inside and out. CC says to just use a common wood glue strip to strip. The epoxy in the end will take care of the rest.

I cut my own strips. After I did I found you can buy strips with cove and bead... A better job than I could do at about the same price. Oh well.

Bill

Graham Knight · Post by **Graham Knight** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 5:59 am

I found you can buy strips with cove and bead... A better job than I could do at about the same price

I've been looking into the cost of strip wood for my next project, and I found the bead and cove was very expensive compared to square strip that I can cut myself.
I'm doing some experiments with different profiles that I can cut myself, a kind of sloppy T&G seems to be the best compromise, self aligning and it doesn't take too much glue, and it's easily cut using just the table saw.
Unfortunately my strip needs to be around 13mm (1/2") thick, and the router cutters for bead and cove are very expensive in that size.

Post by **Bill Edmundson** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 6:28 am

My strips were 1/4" x 3/4" clear Western Cedar. The lumber yard was very proud of the 18' to 20' length boards. I ended up with about $150 in strips and $150 in saw dust (memory). And those 4 pieces of 20' Ash.... Well, I should have at least got a kiss.

Bill

Doug in the woods · Post by **Doug in the woods** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 6:56 am

maybe a cheaper and easier alternative to an actual T&G joint would be an edge banding joint?
Eagle America which I have many of their bits are pretty good router bits.
I see on page 22 of their August 2k6 cat a edge banding bit set for $80 (2 bits)
cuts a V grove(female) in one and a matching male tounge in other.
the actual tongue and groove bits are $80-$120 for the set.
IMO the 100-9015 set (for 3/4" material would have more forgiviness that say an actual T&G joint.
I just happen to have purchased on sale several months ago the 100-9017 which has an actual tongue for 1/2 price.
Now just need to travel to Missouls Montana to get some clear cedar.
QUESTION how forgiving is one of these strip boats in white water rafting?
being in the whitewater capital of the US of A I might be able to sell a stripper canoe or two?
How much are they worth on the open market?

Post by **Bill Edmundson** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 7:06 am

I was really into white water for many years. I was even lucky enough to run the Grand Canyon in 1979 & in 1980.

(Long Time Ago, Now.)

These are not boats for banging into rocks. The Tupper Ware boats today are just a lot better for the kind of treatment a river boat gets.

To get an idea of worth. Check out raysdreamboats.com

Bill

John Bowen · Post by **John Bowen** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 1:50 pm

Thought I'd throw this your way, flute and bead bits.

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/465

stonehollow · Post by **stonehollow** » Tue Jun 27, 2006 4:54 pm

Bead and cove the way to go - see
http://www.myrabo.com/k-canoe/weelassie ... ngback.htm